Tuesday, 21 December 2010

Norwood

Today Matt and I went to check out the relatively recently developed boulders at Norwood. After a brief warm up on some easy but sharp problems we both did a very soft 7A roof called Pocket Rocket. Then we headed over to try a couple of 7A+ problems called Falcon and Falcon Pro. I couldn't work out what I was supposed to do with my feet and the sit-start felt very cramped as you couldn't really hang the starting holds properly as there is a block in the way. It's a pity as this move looks awesome:

Attempting to work out beta on Falcon

Matt had some good attempts on the Ruff Traverse on the same boulder but just ran out of power on the last move. Then the sun went down and it was time for an icy drive home.

Sunset

Unlikely to be out now 'till after Christmas.

Monday, 20 December 2010

Almscliff

Met Matt at the Cliff this afternoon for what we thought would be a short baltic session. Surprisingly up at Demon Wall Roof it was really pretty pleasant in the sun but the cold air meant that the friction was great. Matt finally managed to repeat Demon Wall Roof on his first go today.

Matt on Demon Wall Roof

I also retro-flashed it and the finish of Stu's Roof. We then had a play on Dreamland which I've done a couple of times. The starting crimps were trashing one of my not-quite-healed tips so I gave up after a couple of tries. Matt had a lot more goes with some power-screams and top-off attempts (which I'm not going to post the pictures of on here). The best go was probably this one:

Matt attempting Dreamland

After Matt got bored we headed down to look at the problem I thought was an eliminate last time I was at the Cliff. Now there's no snow drift under it I can see where the sit-start should go from but I'm still not sure which holds are in. The sun was setting by then and it was freezing so we headed home. Going out again tomorrow as if there's sun and no wind it's actually OK to climb when it's this cold which is much better than the last cold spell.

Sunset over Wharfedale

Wednesday, 8 December 2010

More adventures in the snow

Despite the brief thaw on Saturday when it got above zero for the first time in days, most of the crags are still covered in snow. I went to Whitehouses on Monday which was sunny and snow-free and after multiple failed attempts on Peshmurga I moved over to Rageh Omaar which I abandoned last visit due to it trashing my skin. After a few goes trying to avoid the skin-shredding sloper I just MTFU-ed and did it the way I was trying last time - the sloper felt great and the pop to the next hold felt piss. Funny how with grit the difference between failure and success is so subtle - a tiny change in body position or catching a hold just right makes a problem feel effortless when moments before it felt desperate.

Whitehouses

I had a few more goes on Peshmurga after that and then went home just as it got dark. Nearly couldn't get the car out of the lay-by which was a bit of a worry - I really must buy a shovel to keep in the boot!

Today I went to Almscliff to see what was dry. The road up was almost totally clear of snow making driving to the crag much less stressful.

Almscliff

It was pretty windy at the Cliff (what a surprise) and so properly baltic. I had a go on a problem on a bit of rock I've never climbed on at Almscliff near the heart-shaped slab. I think I missed a move out as the snow underneath the problem means a sit start is probably a lot higher than usual. I had a bad sequence involving slapping for a huge jug and so the inevitable happened:

Ouch!

Putting on my shoes I noticed a foot hold I'd missed and so pulled on my rock boots for another go after attempting to stop the blood with lots of chalk. This hold and a crafty toe-hook enabled me to do the move to the jug static. I did the problem from the probably-not-the-real sit start and topped it out which led to an epic cold and snowy descent. It's supposed to be 7B but what I did felt more like 6B so I think it must be an eliminate or something. After the descent I was frozen (rock boots and snow-drifts are a bad combination) and so headed home.

Friday, 3 December 2010

Almscliff in the snow

Dug my car out of the snow and went for a drive to try and find some snow-free rock today. Caley was abandoned before even getting there as the lay-bys on the A660 were buried in snow cleared off the road. I decided to try and see if I could get up the road to Almscliff.

Who needs a 4x4?

The road was covered in snow but no worse than last winter. As expected the crag was buried with the only bits of dry rock being the front of the Virgin, Demon Wall Roof (although snow was starting to melt on top and so it was getting a few drips on) and the roof underneath the Top Cat traverse. I warmed up on Demon Wall Roof and then went to have a go at Sewer Rat Connection. As usual in the snow keeping everything dry was a problem and once the sun went in it was baltic. After I saw the gritting truck go up and down the road past the crag I sacked it and went home to warm up.

Lots of photos of the snow on my flickr site.

Unhappy sheep!

Unhappy sheep!

Icy Virgin

Icy Virgin

Thursday, 2 December 2010

Snow

Been out a few times since last blogged but not got anything much done. I had a good day at Whitehouses last Friday but only got Fat Punter's Roof ticked due to skin issues - great venue though and I'll have to go back there soon. Went to Brimham on Sunday with Matt but everything I wanted to do was covered in snow so wandered over to Crimpy Roof but I only had a couple of goes as felt pretty rubbish.

It started snowing as we left Brimham making for an interesting drive home and has been snowing off and on since then. I went for a run over to Ilkley and back on Monday and walked (too much snow for running now!) over there today to do some shopping.

Looking across to the Chevin

Looking across to the Chevin

Cow and Calf

The Cow and Calf

Snowy Calf

Calf buried in the snow - Ringpiece (the overhanging arete on the left of the boulder) will have to wait for a while...

Olicana

Olicana butress