Thursday, 14 April 2011

Sept B plus dans la Forêt

Just back from a quick trip to Font via Kyloe In and Edinburgh. Conditions were pretty hot and sweaty for a lot of the visit. I surprised Chad and Humble by getting up early on two days to find good conditions for crimping hard but unfortunately even with spotting/encouragement from Humble dragged out of bed at 8am for the second session I failed to keep my feet in contact with the rock on what should have been "the go" on Rubis sur l'ongle. It's a stunning line and I will definitely go back for it.

The day before that after a leisurely extended warm-up at Rocher Canon and some scary falls off Rêve de Pierre (thanks for catching me when I totally missed the pads Chad!) we headed to Cuvier. It was the quietest I've ever seen it and conditions felt perfect. I watched someone having a few goes on the sitter to Carnage and when he got it done and left there was no-one under that wall at all (anyone that's been to Cuvier will realise how rare that is). I moved the pads over and some other people also came over for a go. I started like they were - pulling on with the hold to the right (on la Bérézina?) but although I was easily making the distance to the crimp I wasn't hitting it properly. I was surprised by how good a hold it obviously was - well I suppose if you're going to chip a crimp you might as well make it a good one....

I then tried a couple of times with the jump start method and on the first time I held the crimp I moved my feet up and pulled though to the first sloper which was a whole lot better than I expected so pulled my feet up and went for the next hold which also felt huge. My feet cut loose and after a vague attempt at putting them back on I just campused up to the boss, matched it and reached up to the incut finishing holds hardly believing I'd just done one of the most famous 7B+ problems in Font in about 10 goes.

Unfortunately my crack spotting team were busy climbing elsewhere (although Chad did see me top out) so there's only this picture from Chad of one of the earlier attempts to illustrate the moment...

Me on Le Carnage. Photo (c) Chad Harrison

Really pleased with this because although I've climbed a few 7B+s in Yorkshire, I've never done one so quickly (i.e in a session) and to do it in the forest was an unexpected bonus.

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